The Bustan

P had to go to India over the weekend on business so I thought, “Great! The kids and I will spend the weekend at the Bustan.” When P looked at me warily, I nonchalantly said, “I have a coupon for 50% off, shouldn’t cost much and the youngest two should eat for free.” The Bustan or more precisely Al-Bustan Palace Hotel is the premier place to stay in Muscat. It is listed as one of the places to see in the best-selling book “1000 Places to See Before You Die”, although I must say that the book has a disproportionate number of locales in North America . I am sure that if you distilled such places as Superdawgs Restaurant in Chicago or the Four Season’s Hotel in Toronto, the book’s list will somehow drop under 500. Lonely Planet thinks the Bustan is more trouble going to than it’s worth, being a bit far from the main city sights so that may give you an idea on how you would personally gauge the place. But for P and me, and I am sure the children, it is one of the gems of Oman, if not the entire Gulf.

Good old Bustan, which means garden, was special built in the 1980’s when Oman hosted the GCC (Gulf Cooperation Council) summit for the first time. The spot chosen for this lovely hotel is on one of the nicest stretches of beach on the Gulf Of Oman. Unfortunately, it also sheltered the small fishing village of Al-Bustan. And so when that strip of beachfront was selected for this very important summit, the entire village was relocated ½ km away. Everyone got a new home. The fishing boats and the new piece of beach were demarcated from the resort by a concrete fence and a sign saying “Private Property”.

On the odd occasion walkers and joggers staying at the hotel continue on to the village beach but generally the fishermen never venture to the other side. There are, however, two older Omani ladies that still roam the hotel grounds in their traditional garb, picking lemons from the trees, gathering grass and straw for their goats, or taking fallen palm fronds that they would weave into neat plaits and sell to passersby’s at the roadside entrance to the hotel. Why not? This was their ancestral home after all, never mind that sign to keep out!

The Bustan is a true haven for many an expat here in Oman. And at only 25 minutes highway drive door to door from our home, we usually spend a weekend morning or afternoon there. It is one of the few places where one, male or female, can walk the beach in a bathing suit, safe from offending the local customs of modesty. The backdrop is gorgeous. The Arabian Sea stretching out towards the Indian subcontinent on one side and the start of the rocky Hajar mountains on the other, with the Bustan nestled in an oasis of greenery. The beach is sandy and slopes gently and houses a decent outcrop of rock and coral that attracts nice fishes and is suitable for snorkeling straight from the shore. But the piece de resistance is actually indoors at the magnificent domed lobby where you can sit and have high tea amidst the opulent Arabic style furnishings. The children always say “Wow!” when we walk through the lobby. I do hope they will remember.

The link to the Bustan is http://al-bustan.intercontinental.com/

Where in the world

Buck Creek is in Oman. For the time being anyways. We are in the crosshairs for another move towards the end of the year, perhaps as early as September but certainly no later than early January 2006, according to P, my husband. Again the next location is anyone's guess but not to worry yet. There is still the summer break to take back home and I have yet to see Jebel Akhdar, Salalah and Masirah Island before we say "Masalama" to Oman.

Oman has been quite the experience. When we first arrived, the world's news headlines were heralding the imminent Iraqi War. One month later, a very distraught Uncle C was calling me long distance from Montreal as he watched Baghdad blown to bits on CNN. I assured him that we were a safe distance away but only after double checking the range of the latest SCUD missiles. In reality, what was more of a concern for me was how I was going to get furniture that matched the hideous yellow curtains left behind by the previous tenants. It is true what they say, news is always exagerrated.

Now that a move may be in the works, we find ourselves saying more frequently that we will look back and consider Oman one of our best postings. Maybe so. Oman is on the cusp of change from Old World to New and we are lucky enough to still see it at the brink. Three years ago , other than the major hotels, there were no decent coffee places to go and just hang out. Unless of course you preferred the fruity tobacco smells of hubbly-bubbly or sheeshas with your coffee. I understand that at one time many of these sheesha places were banned along with video arcades. I guess nicotine-induced sedition and carpal's tunnel syndrome are no longer thought to be dangerous. P and I visited one of these "sheesha tents" last Ramadan. Had a go of the water pipe but it was not to my liking. Didn't even try it with coffee.

And now, Oman is coming of age.....around Muscat, there are plenty of Starbucks, Costa Coffees and strangely a Second Cup, replete with a "Proudly Canadian " sign in the decor. I welcomed the arrival of a good latte but for that truly Omani experience, there's nothing like being served "kahwa" by the thimbleful and offered a bowl of dates or a small piece of "halwa", the typical Omani dessert. This happens everyday, not just for show in the lobbies of the major hotels or in the souvenir shops in the Souk, but throughout the Sultanate. Nothing says "Welcome, take pause" more than a short shot of that strong, bitter, amber liquid followed by a sweet favour. Stop at any small village to ask for directions - you don't even have to look lost- and out comes running a little boy with the thermos. Recently, P and I were setting up a small picnic at a wadi (river bed, usually dry) when suddenly the family picnicking underneath some date palms a few metres away, arrive with khawa, dates and even china cups! Such is the Old World Omani hospitality.

I hear Second Cup has a drive-through window. Progress, hmmm.

Welcome to Buck Creek!

Thanks for taking the time to find this. I am a newbie at blogging but want to give this a go.

If you did get in here, then consider yourself lucky (or unlucky) as you will get more of me than most people do. I suppose writing has always allowed me to be more open about expressing how I really feel and what I think. Because time is such a precious commodity for me these days, my inner voice usually does not come out and is normally drowned by the necessary and practical demands (and commands?) of everyday life. But here we are.

I make no promises on what you will get but in general it will be my life in "Buck Creek", euphemism for whatever part of the world I live in these days. Some of you may see this as a travelogue and yes, you will get that but for the most part, it will be my rants, raves and the outlet for some creative writing.

Welcome to Buck Creek!