Where in the world

Buck Creek is in Oman. For the time being anyways. We are in the crosshairs for another move towards the end of the year, perhaps as early as September but certainly no later than early January 2006, according to P, my husband. Again the next location is anyone's guess but not to worry yet. There is still the summer break to take back home and I have yet to see Jebel Akhdar, Salalah and Masirah Island before we say "Masalama" to Oman.

Oman has been quite the experience. When we first arrived, the world's news headlines were heralding the imminent Iraqi War. One month later, a very distraught Uncle C was calling me long distance from Montreal as he watched Baghdad blown to bits on CNN. I assured him that we were a safe distance away but only after double checking the range of the latest SCUD missiles. In reality, what was more of a concern for me was how I was going to get furniture that matched the hideous yellow curtains left behind by the previous tenants. It is true what they say, news is always exagerrated.

Now that a move may be in the works, we find ourselves saying more frequently that we will look back and consider Oman one of our best postings. Maybe so. Oman is on the cusp of change from Old World to New and we are lucky enough to still see it at the brink. Three years ago , other than the major hotels, there were no decent coffee places to go and just hang out. Unless of course you preferred the fruity tobacco smells of hubbly-bubbly or sheeshas with your coffee. I understand that at one time many of these sheesha places were banned along with video arcades. I guess nicotine-induced sedition and carpal's tunnel syndrome are no longer thought to be dangerous. P and I visited one of these "sheesha tents" last Ramadan. Had a go of the water pipe but it was not to my liking. Didn't even try it with coffee.

And now, Oman is coming of age.....around Muscat, there are plenty of Starbucks, Costa Coffees and strangely a Second Cup, replete with a "Proudly Canadian " sign in the decor. I welcomed the arrival of a good latte but for that truly Omani experience, there's nothing like being served "kahwa" by the thimbleful and offered a bowl of dates or a small piece of "halwa", the typical Omani dessert. This happens everyday, not just for show in the lobbies of the major hotels or in the souvenir shops in the Souk, but throughout the Sultanate. Nothing says "Welcome, take pause" more than a short shot of that strong, bitter, amber liquid followed by a sweet favour. Stop at any small village to ask for directions - you don't even have to look lost- and out comes running a little boy with the thermos. Recently, P and I were setting up a small picnic at a wadi (river bed, usually dry) when suddenly the family picnicking underneath some date palms a few metres away, arrive with khawa, dates and even china cups! Such is the Old World Omani hospitality.

I hear Second Cup has a drive-through window. Progress, hmmm.