> Buck Creek Diary: November 2005

Buck Creek Diary

Friday, November 18, 2005

Peace by Piece

There are 55 nationalities represented in the children's school. Every year they hold a UN Day concert to celebrate this diversity. The theme this year was "Peace by Piece". Above is a collage of the special day's highlights. Posted by Picasa

Labels:

Wednesday, November 09, 2005

Camping at Al Khaluf

Every year during the first Eid holiday ( there are 2 yearly), we go camping with our friends, the L's. This year was no exception as we planned a great trip to Al Khaluf, on the coast, 6 hours drive south of Muscat. Unfortunately, M3 our young son, caught flu the night before so I stayed behind to care for him. ( He was fine after 1.5 days the bum!) P and the girls had a great time although P was exhausted from all the driving and hard work setting up and taking down the camp! They came back with tales of exploring the massive sand dunes and following animal prints to a foxhole whose entrance was laden with bones, of playing on the isolated beach and finding pecten shells the size of salad plates and telling spooky ghost stories around the campfire. I missed it all :( Enough said. Here are some pictures.


Roadside picnic

Campsite facing the Arabian Sea

Sand dunes of Al Khaluf , view of camp
top left corner

Exploring the dunes

Leave nothing but footprints Posted by Picasa

Labels:

Tuesday, November 08, 2005

The Grand Mosque

“We have resolved, by the virtue and help of God, to create from this blessed mosque a centre of culture and thought.”
H.M. Sultan Qaboos Bin Said at the Inauguration of the Grand Mosque

Whenever we pass by the Grand Mosque on the highway, the children always say “It’s the Grand Mosque and that means we are almost home!” We live but a short drive away from the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, which is the most prominent landmark in Muscat. The Grand Mosque, never referred to as anything but the Grand Mosque, sits on a 416,000 square metre site with beautiful White Mountain and the Bausher sands as its backdrop. This spectacular building is on the main thoroughfare before reaching the city. And what a first impression it makes!

The Grand Mosque opened in May 2001 after 6 years construction time. The site was designed by an Omani and British consortium. Costs are often speculated at but it is largely unknown as the Grand Mosque is “a gift of the Sultan to the Omani people”, as the guides will tell you. As you tour the area, with its perfectly manicured gardens, white Carerra marble from Italy, teakwood from the Far East, carpets from Iran, crystals from Europe, you know that no expense was spared.

The Grand Mosque is part of our regular tour when we have visitors and I have been inside often enough that I can probably give the tour guides a run for their money. But actually no, as the entry and tours of the Grand Mosque are free.

The Grand Mosque is bordered by 5 minarets, representing the five pillars of the Islamic faith. In keeping with Omani tradition that mosques are built above street level, at the centre of the site is a podium that supports the key features of this holy place- the Main Prayer Hall, the open air prayer courtyard and the Women’s Prayer Hall. This podium area is all in white marble while the boundaries are delineated with archways and passages in brown stone. The guide explained that the white areas are where one must be “clean” and the brown areas housed the ablution courts where you must wash your face, hands and feet five times as required by the Koran.

These brown archways also display niches with the most exquisite mosaics. These mosaics are of ancient and modern designs and are based on Arab, Islamic and Pre-Islamic art and culture that span the world from Spain to Central Asia. These niches are just one of the stunning gems of this place.

The Main Prayer Hall (reserved for men) is magnificent. The Swarovski crystal chandelier takes your breath away as does the carpet that covers the floor - the world’s largest Iranian carpet that took 600 women four years to weave. The carpet came in 57 panels that was airlifted and reassembled by weavers so that no joins can be seen. I look closely every time I go and haven’t found any yet.

The detail in the hall is superb. You see pure white and grey marble panels carved with geometric designs, delicate gold leaf relief on the Dome to match the floral medallion pattern on the carpet, Koranic calligraphy etched blue and gold onto the marble moulding that run the perimeter of the Hall, ceramic murals and tiles in Persian motifs made by Isfahan artisans and even the massive doors of Malay teak are intricately carved in floral and arabesque patterns.

In sharp contrast to the opulence of the Main Hall, the “minimalist” Ladies Prayer Room often shocks the visitor. It doesn’t help that the guides usually play up its “plainness” by pointing out that the carpet is machine made, synthetic from Scotland, or that the chandeliers are not Swarovski but crystal from Turkey. I do admit, however, that it does have a certain charm with its pink and terracotta carved stone walls and wooden paneled ceiling with decorative Omani patterns. The guidebook explains that the Ladies Prayer Hall was designed to complement the simplicity of the inner courtyard and was intentionally simple to contrast the lush Main Hall. OK whatever.

The Grand Mosque is open for public tours from Saturday to Wednesday from 800 am – 1100 am provided one is appropriately dressed.

The facts about the Grand Mosque are as astounding as the place itself:

Area: Site 416,000 sq.m.
Podium 40,000 sq. m.

Capacity: Main Prayer Hall: 6,500
Main Courtyard: 8,000
Women’s Prayer Hall: 750

Main Prayer Hall Central Chandelier: 8 tons, 1,122 lamps

Prayer Hall Carpet: 60 x 70 metres - 4263 sq. m. 1.7 billion knots, weighs 21 tons

Labels:

Grand Mosque Photos

These photos were taken by P recently and by his brother 2 years ago. My blog on the Grand Mosque will be up soon.


South entrance with view of Main Hall dome and central minaret.

East view of Main Prayer Hall, Ladies Prayer Hall, south courtyard, southwest minaret.

Pulpit in Main Prayer Hall.

Main Prayer Hall

Swarovski crystal chandelier in Main Prayer Hall.

Ladies Prayer Hall

Sample of one of the fine mosaic niches.

Another mosaic niche.

Acceptable forms of dress when visiting the Grand Mosque. Posted by Picasa

Labels:

Lonely 2

As an addendum to my last post, I was told of a very interesting article on Tony and Maureen Wheeler, the founders of Lonely Planet, and ironically on their recent trip to Oman. The article is from The New Yorker April 2005 issue. You can click on this link The New Yorker article: The Parachute Artist .

Read it then you can decide for yourself if they have long sold out. Or perhaps the Wheelers are just living out their lives like other comfortably affluent babyboomers.

Labels: